>[!NOTE]+ Meta Author:: [[Kaamya Sharma]] Reference:: https://garlandmag.com/loop/nivi-sari/ Date:: 2022-04-06 Tags:: #India #fashion #warp/talk WeftLinks:: [[Cultural value of craft]] [[Reinventing the Wheel]] [[Claim - Craft strengthens relationships between members of a cultural group]] > [!SUMMARY] Summary > The particular fold found in the Nivi sari was critical to the emergence a new cultural identity in post-Independence India. ### Notes Kaamya Sharma questions the romantic view of craft as a good in itself, something that can lead to cosy nostalgia if left unchecked. She does this by seeking to represent the interests of those individuals who are directly involved. Her story on [dhurries](https://garlandmag.com/article/the-rules-of-the-game/) reflected the experience of hosts who performed authenticity for tourists. Her article on “[sartorial bio-moralism](https://garlandmag.com/loop/kaamya-sharma/)” questions the aesthetic hierarchy that put handwoven cotton and silk about machine-made polyester. And in this talk she further developed the perspective of the user, drawing on a book she is writing based on her doctoral research on dress and colonialism in southern India. Kaamya opened up the broader question about role of the user in our understanding of craft. Kaamya describe the evolution of the Nivi drape as a symbol of the newly independent Indian nation. This was developed by influential individuals and the exigencies of modern daily life. Kaamya expanded the critical gaze beyond the maker to the user and tailor employed to customise it. ### Presentation ![[Kaamya Sharma presentation.pdf]] ### Recording <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xLB2aqRI-cE" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> ### Bilbiography Alkazi, Roshen. Ancient Indian Costume. New Delhi: National Book Trust, 1996. Banerjee, Mukulika and Daniel Miller. The Sari. Oxford: Berg, 2003. Bayly, C. A. “The origins of Swadeshi (home industry): cloth and Indian society 1700-1930.”  In The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective edited by Arjun Appadurai, 285-322. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986. Biswas, Arabinda. Indian Costumes. New Delhi: Ministry of Information & Broadcasting, Publications Division, 1985.   Boulanger, Chantal. Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping. New York: Shakti Press International, 1997.  Chandra, Moti. The history of Indian costumes from the 3rd to the end of the 7th century A. D., New Delhi: Archaeological Survey of India, 1944.  Dalrymple, William. Begums, Thugs and Englishmen: The Journals of Fanny Parkes. New Delhi: Penguin, 2003. Fabri, Charles. A History of Indian Dress. New Delhi: Orient Longman, 1960. Ghosh, Amitav. The Glass Palace. New York: Random House, 2001.  Ghurye, G.S. Indian Costume. New Delhi: Popular Prakashan, 1951. Hardgrave Robert L. “The Breast-Cloth Controversy: Caste Consciousness and Social Change in Southern Travancore.” In Indian Economic History Review 5, no. 2 (1968): 171–87. Kawlra, Aarti. “Sari and the Narrative of Nation in 20th Century India”. In Marie-Louise Nosch, Zhao Feng, and Lotika Varadarajan (eds), Global Textile Encounters, 213-226. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2014. Kawlra, Aarti. We Who Wove with Lotus Thread: Summoning Community in South India. New Delhi: Orient Blackswan, 2018. Kawlra, Aarti. “Kanchipuram sari: Design for auspiciousness”, Design issues, 21(4) (2005) , pp. 54–67. Lynton, Linda. The Sari: Styles, Patterns, History, Techniques. Chicago: University of Michigan Press, 1995. McGowan, Abigail. Crafting the Nation in Colonial India. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2009.  Sandhu, Arti. Indian Fashion: Tradition, Innovation, Style. London: Bloomsbury, 2015. Sardesai, G. S. “The Pilgrimage of my Life” in The New Brahmans: Five Maharashtrian Families. Edited by Ellen E. McDonald. Translated by D.D. Karve, 110-124, 121-22. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1963.  Singh, Justina A. “’Modern’ Draped Sari Replaces Traditional Costumes of Educated Indian Women and the Relation of this Change to The Development of Education and Communication in India.” PhD diss., Pennsylvania State University, 1966.  Tarlo, Emma. Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India. London: Hurst & Co., 1996.  Wielenga, Karuna Dietrich. “The Geography of Weaving in Early Nineteenth-Century South India.” In Indian Economic and Social History Review 52, no. 2 (2015): 147-84, https://doi.org/10.1177/0019464615573158 .